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I rose early and it was cold on the ridge - 38
degrees! I quickly broke camp and headed for N.O.C. - Nantahala Outdoor
Center. It was going to be a hard descent to the river center, but
it meant hot showers, a bunk, food, fun, river & resupply! So I didn't
really feellike it was going to whoop me like it did. My knees were
screaming at me by the time I walked the 11.4 miles to N.O.C.
Rooms were $15 & I checked in as soon as I got here. Mostly, I just
wanted to sit for a while.
The N.O.C. is a very large operation w/ 5 locations on the river.
The river was used for the Olympics kayaking. The center has two
restaurants, an outfitter store, rafting trips & more. It is a
great place to take a zero! - off to do laundry, eat, nap & shop...
- Dawg
Zero day - I was lazy and ate most of the day.
I'm not sure if it was because I rested or what but I ate all day!!
I didn't run the river. I have been to N.O.C. in the past with frinds
and I thought I would wait until the summer & a river I have not
already done. I would, however, recommend it it anyone!
I camped on the river instead of staying in the hostel. I didn't
want to spend another $15, and besides, the river affords great
night sounds - river running, insects singing, fire popping and
a gently
breeze. It is great to be out here. Chance of light showers so
sleeping under the tarp.
There are many hikers who didn't want to spend the cash so they
are here, too! I count 3 campfires and roughly 12-14 tents. Full
Crowd.
Tough climb out of the lowlands to the ridge. Supposed to be 6
miles up, and up, and up...
Let you know tomorrow...
P.S. - Missing everyone & thanks for keeping up
on TrailDawg.
Hello! I hope out there is well. I’m doing great! I didn’t leave N.O.C. until 2 p.m. It was awesome to take a Zero at N.O.C. and I’m glad I stayed. Most hiker’s needs are only a ten-minute walk at most. It was a well deserved and needed break.
Despite my late departure from N.O.C., I managed to put down 13 miles to Simp Gap (145.6). Actually, I camped just past Simp Gap with a colorful character named Moose, who was set up right off the trail and about to light a fire. It was getting late and dark, so I decided to join him. It was my first meeting Moose and to say the least, he is quite a handful of personality.
The hike out of N.O.C. was not as bad as the hikers had rumored it either. I thought it was tough, yes, but not any more so than the previous miles. The sights, though, were different along these miles as compared to Georgia. The bare forest trees and shrubs were beginning to bud and dormant wildlife made appearances here and there. While I was hiking, I thought of six words that described the trail from N.O.C. to Fontana: Sunshine, springtime, breezes, butterflies, wildflowers and _____. It was incredible. It was like walking through a perfect fairytale. No matter how many words I write or pictures I take can or will be able to convey the trail as I saw it these last two days.
On Thursday I completed 15.6 miles to Fontana Dam, N.C. There’s really not too much to write about other than the awesome scenery. I walked by myself these two days since I left N.O.C. so late. Coming into Fontana, I came off the trail about 4:45 in the evening, which was just in time for the last shuttle to Fontana Village about two miles away. Fontana Village is a small mountain retreat with cabins for rent, a post office, a restaurant, an indoor/outdoor pool, an outfitter, a community/recreational center, etc. It is really a neat place.
Just before the shuttle arrived, Mosey (an older 60+ years female hiker) came out of the woods. Jason, who has worked for The Village for over 3 years, picked us up. He dropped us off at the AYCE restaurant door. We wanted to eat—no showers or room arrangements first—eating was PRIORITY. The restaurant was filled with about 15 hikers all eating from the buffet. It was a sight to see. Thru-hikers eat and eat and eat while they are laid over in town and to see 15+ hikers gluttonous at an AYCE is just a sight! It was a fun time eating and talking about the trail. After walking for merely two days alone, it was nice to have the fellowship of other hikers again. I was offered a room (free of charge) by Lumpy and Toby, so that’s where I decided to stay for the night.
Only 5.6 miles logged due to late start (7 p.m.) out of Village. I was waiting on UPS to deliver the digital Compact Flash cards for my camera. I waited all day for the package, which was scheduled for 4:30 p.m. delivery; I wasn’t going to bump it ahead since I needed the capacity for the Great Smokey Mountains.
Meanwhile, to fill the hours, I browsed through books at the outfitter and watched a movie on the community television. The package finally arrived and technically I could have left for the trail immediately, but I didn’t. Instead, I decided I might as well eat at the buffet again since it was so close to 5 p.m. (that’s when they open for dinner), so I did. I only ate the salad bar (cheaper) but I got my money’s worth; I emptied their sprouts three times.
The shuttle to the trailhead generally does not run after 5 p.m., but the security guard on duty kindly offered me a ride. She and her family have lived in the Fontana area for several generations. In fact, her family has many acres of land in the county and has from some 4 generations back; her distant family members were some of the original settlers to the area. She had many awesome stories to tell about the local history of the Dam and land surrounding it, which was really neat to hear.
She wished me luck and pulled away from the AT and me just as the sun and temperature dropped. I hiked into the Smokey Mountains alone—and at night! It was scary to speak the truth. I have heard many stories about the Smokey Mountains—unpredictable weather, bears, terrain, etc., so I was intimidated some.
Shortly, though, after about 2 hours of power hiking I came to Birch Spring Tent site where Toby, Lumpy, Moose, Sundog, and Robbie (also a UGA grad.) were camped. I didn’t stay up long since it was dark when I arrived; I just set my tarp and went to bed. I wanted to be rested for the Great Smokey Mountains!
Up at 7:30 a.m. and was out at 8:30 p.m. I slept great! I climbed up to the ridge of the Smokies via a series of small knobs and winding ascents. The trail in the Smokies was originally a pack animal trail, so the inclines and declines are generally more easygoing, which is a nice change. Also, the AT follows the ridge of the mountain chain so there are not as many P.U.D.S. like Georgia and North Carolina.
I decided to eat lunch at Mollies Ridge Shelter (174.1 mi; 4570’); I was joined by Robbie and Sundog, and then later by Moose, Toby, and Lumpy. Lumpy didn’t look like he was feeling so hot. It had taken him much more time to hike the same miles as us healthy, un-injured guys; he looked bad to me. Frankly, I was worried he wasn’t going to make it. I left him after a long two-hour lunch and headed for Rocky Top.
Rocky Top (180.7 mi; 5441’) was one of my first vistas of the Smokies. It was roughly six miles from Mollies Ridge Shelter. It was a great view! I could even look to the next knob to see where I was headed; it was cool. Like the name suggests, there are many rocks on Rocky Top. I didn’t really explore too much of Rocky Top, but I did stop long enough to snap a few pictures.
I was headed for Derrick Knob Shelter from Rocky Top. I pushed myself to a 17.1-mile day—so far, my personal best! When I arrived at the shelter, Travis, Kip, Doc, Pacemaker, Thumper, Moose greeted me, and others including a “ridge runner” named Kent. Ridge Runners are people who are employed by the forest service (I think) to walk the trail. They are over-worked and underpaid, but who isn’t, right? Anyway, they help maintain the integrity of the shelters and trail. Also, regulation of the Smokey Mountains is strict and rules must be obeyed or you (the hiker) can be fined up to $5000 per violation. Although no formal authority, Ridge Runners help enforce the rules. For instance, hikers must use the provided shelters unless the shelters are at max capacity. If so, then hikers may tent camp within visual distance of the shelter. No other backcountry camping is allowed (unless you care to pay a large fine). Kent was a very nice guy and a former thru-hiker (‘03).
I arrived in camp about 7-ish. I ate a small meal and went to bed. It was a long day and was tired, too! I slept under the tarp since the shelter was full. I was glad, too, because sleeping in public is weird and to date, shelter-sleeping has not my best sleep on the trail.
Goodnight! Another day tomorrow in the Great Smokey Mountain National Park…
Sunday April 25th -
Today was a cool day. Thumper, Travis, Kip, Pacemaker & myself made it to the highest point on the trail, Clingman's Dome (6643'). It was a long, steep drive uphill and we all felt the burn. But like most vistas, the reward is always worth the effort.
We reached Clingman's Dome around lunch and decided to eat lunch in the lookout tower. The tower affords views 360 deg around and 180 deg from horizen to horizen. Unfortunately, the clouds limited most of our view. We did eat lunch, however, and it was cold up there. We didn't realize how much warmer it was on the ground. The wind didn't cut as bad, that's for sure!
As we ate, many tourists asked us questions about what we were doing & we hapily replied. Some people say it can be burdensome having every random stranger asking "are you a thru-hiker?" or "have you read Bill Bryson's book 'A Walk in the Woods'?" But mostly, for me, it is fun and I enjoy talking to people about thru-hiking. People are just curious, that's all. I think if I was asked on a bad day I might get irritated, but that has not occured as of yet.
We pushed on to Mt. Collins Shelter (199.3) after lunch. When we arrived, Dutch was there, followed by Kent, the ridgerunner, Travis, Kip, Pacemaker, Welsh Nomad, Thumper, Moose, Doc & myself. We all began to set camp. Some decided to split camp chores. So Kip, Pacemaker and Dutch gathered wood while Travis, Thumper, Doc, Moose and I went to filter water. It wasn't minutes after we all sat together aroudn teh fire ring with our chores completed that it began to pour rain - heavy rain w/ small size hail!
We all made haste for the shelter - we grabbed packs, stoves, stuff sacs w/ food, water bottles, wood (dry) & made it to the cover of the shelter. It was quick thinking on everyone's part. It didnt' matter if it didn't belong to you, it was in the shelter dry. Moose & Doc were still filtering water when the storm hit, so when they returned to the shelter, they were like wet dogs - just drenched & dripping. Fortunately, they had dry clothes to change into. We gawked at the mighty storm for a while then proceeded to continue making dinner & building a fire. Yes, there was a fire place built into the wall of the shelter. One by one we all went to bed. Kip played the guitar in front of the fire into the night. It was nice to hear music again...
Goodnight!
P.S. - 13.5 miles covered today.
Continue to week 4
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