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It must have been in the high 40”s last night- a bit chilly for August!! I woke up to sunshine this morning. I had gone to bed last night hoping the sun would shine today to help dry out the trail. I enjoyed granola and a liter of gateraid for breakfast, then left the shelter at about 10:30am. I wasn’t planning to go for the big miles today, so there was no need to rush. Also, I thought the later I left, the more time the sun would have to start drying out the trail. It seemed my strategy had worked only in certain areas and sections of the trail. Places where the tree canopy opened to allow the direct sunlight to shine on the trail were much better than shaded areas where it continued to be very wet and muddy. Oh, well, sometimes you just have to deal with it!! I made good time to state road Vt.9. It was downhill so I was able to keep a good, steady pace. I ate lunch at the trail head parking lot with Brood X and Tarzan. We received “trail magic” from a nice lady who was dropping her husband off to go section hiking. She gave us 3 apples, 2 oranges, 3 “You Are What You Eat” bars, and some double chocolate chip cookies. All this, in addition to my sprouts and hummus!! I was stuffed!! I had removed my boots and socks in an attempt to dry them out—it didn’t work too well. From Vt.9 it was a strenuous climb- up in elevation 1000 feet in less than 2 miles. I anticipate more ascents and descents like this as I continue northward. I took a small break at Melville Nauheim Shelter to read the register. Going on, I took another break at Hell Hollow Brook. I needed water. Brood X and Tarzan also rested momentarily here. The last 4 miles to Goddard Shelter, I passed a few good vistas- small windows through the trees where I could see out. Goddard Shelter is 3/10’s mile from the summit of Glastenbury Mountain, elevation 3540 feet. At the top of Glastenbury there is a fire tower. From the fire tower, I was hoping to see the sunset; which is why I did 14.4 miles today- hoping to see a beautiful sunset. Unfortunately, clouds and haze blew in around 5:30pm so the sunset was not as good as I had hoped for. It was windy on the fire tower and cold. There were 7 of us in the shelter tonight. A group of 10 hikers from Yale are tent camping. There is a half-moon out and it feels like it is going to be another chilly night. There are rumors of rain for tomorrow. I am planning on 20 plus miles if I feel up to it…..
I’m sitting under millions of stars by Stratton Pond (1625.7 miles) after witnessing a beautiful sunset. It is dark now and I’m semi-clean after a short, late afternoon swim in the pond. I’m comfortably warm in my sleeping bag with a great view of the pond, moon, and vast sky. I plan on “cowboy camping” here tonight. I just can’t pass this place up- it is too amazing!! Thinking over the day’s events, I smile, knowing that days like today are the reason I hike the Appalachian Trail. Departing at 10:30am from Goddard Shelter, I climbed the Glastenbury fire tower again to see the views and to take photos. It was very clear and remained sunny like yesterday. I left there and began walking north. The trail was less muddy but still bad in certain areas. However, the mud is soft on the feet-which is nice!! I must say, I think Vermont is the most aquatic state thus far. I passed a stream or water source every couple of hundred feet. I walked through several hemlock forests today. The smell of the forest reminded me of walking through a Christmas tree lot during Christmas time-except cleaner, and of course, more scenic. I ate lunch at Story Spring Shelter (1615.2 miles) with Tarzan, Brood X, Backdraft, Dig Dug, Red B. and L.P. I had dehydrated watermelon, trail bars and gorp which fueled me to the almost 4000 foot Stratton Mountain (1622.6 miles). This climb is feared by hikers because it is one of the first big mountains we come to after hiking mild New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts. I didn’t think about it too much, really. I think after climbing the mountain, most people feel it was easier than they originally anticipated. I thought it was an easy, very gradual climb. At the peak there is a fire tower. The views were great, but since the top of the tower was all windowed in, I couldn’t get very good pictures. I spoke with Jeannie, the caretaker, for a good 20 minutes while I ate a snack. I had to add a layer of clothing since the wind and shadows had made it brisk; nor did the fact that I was wet, help. Usually, a 1500 foot climb means a hard descent but it wasn’t too awful either! I made it to the pond at the base of the mountain by 6:30pm. This is when I swam. I probably would not have got in the water, but Tarzan led the way. Brood X decided to swim then, too. The sun was fading, but the water was pleasantly warm. We air-dried. I ate dinner in silence then was able to take some great photos of the sunset. Later, after the stars appeared, we watched in awe at the number of stars that were visible. I even saw a shooting star!!! Sometimes I think I see one but then I doubt myself and dismiss it as my eyes “playing tricks” on me. But not this time!! I KNOW I SAW IT!! Tarzan said he saw it, too! Now, all of them have gone back to the shelter for the night. Not me!! I’m staying right here by the pond. I want to see the sun rise in the morning. Besides, I can stay at a shelter any night. It feels like it will be another cold night. I plan to be up early in the morning. I’m bound for Manchester Center, Vermont. It’s 10 miles to town then I hope to do 2 miles out today. I wish for all of you back home that you have days as great as today has been for me. It was perfect- the weather, the mountains, the hiking, the friends, the experience- it was all just perfect! Goodnight!!!
It was a good day into town- Manchester Center, Vermont. I woke up early this morning to a dew-soaked sleeping bag and back pack. After packing things up like normal, I hiked alone to Spruce Peak Shelter (1633.5 miles) for lunch. I walked 3 miles to a road where I was able to get a hitch into town. First thing I did when I arrived was my laundry. Then I ate another lunch from a health food store nearby while I was waiting for my clothes to dry. I stopped by two outfitters but purchased nothing. Then I went to a bookstore and looked around for quite some time. Also, I used the free internet and ate a small snack. Later, I had sushi for dinner and pigged out!! It was GOOOOD! I was almost ready to leave town- all that remained was to make a few phone calls home. I was walking past a pizza shop, and a local college student, Caleb, struck up a conversation with me about hiking. We talked while his friends picked up their carry-out pizza. He invited me to join them and I accepted. We went to another friend’s house where I met a guy, John. John grew up in Vermont on Bromley Mountain, the very mountain I needed to climb to leave town. He offered to drive me to the top. At first, I was hesitant. But then he explained that we’d have to 4-wheel up ski trails! Huh?! The Appalachian Trail climbs Bromley Mountain, which is home to the Bromley Ski Resort. John has skied those slopes since he was 2 years old. It was getting close to 9:00pm, so I accepted the offer. This 3 mile ride was excellent! We were 4-wheeling on the ski trails that people vacationed on during the winter! It was a blast! Now, I’m in the “Warming Hut” atop Bromley with a SOBO named Caveman. Sure did scare him when we pulled up in that jeep wrangler! I don’t really consider this a yellow blaze- I’m not sure what kind of blaze it was – all I know is that it was fun! I did 13.6 miles for the day!
The first thing this morning, I made phone calls from the phone inside the Warming Hut. I got trail magic- a banana and an apple- from a nice lady and her husband. They asked questions about my hike and were amazed I had walked this far. I suppose I am numb to it; the people I’ve socialized with for the last 4 ½ months are all hikers or are hiker-friendly, and to us- walking the miles is the way we live day in and day out! It’s as normal as working 8 hours. I enjoyed the vistas from Bromley Mountain Lookout (1639.3 miles- 3260feet) with Burnie, Flava Flav. and Crazy Legs. It was hazy and cloudy: overall, a limited view. We passed Griffith Lake and climbed Baker Peak. The view remained hazy but by this time in the evening, the sun had burned the clouds away. It was windy and cool- a perfect place for Burnie, Flava Flav and I to take a break. We cooled down and ate a snack as the sun set on our faces and the wind gusted across our skin. Unfortunately, we could not stay and watch the sun set completely; instead we needed the last daylight to hike the remaining 4 miles to Big Branch Shelter. Burnie had a bad slip on a bog and fell into a ditch. She was startled and shaken, but physically, she was okay. She scared Flava Flav and me. We all treaded more carefully to the shelter. It was dark when we arrived, but there was still enough light to see with our headlamps. Tarzan, Brood X, Crazy Legs, and Tall Tales were already there. Brood X had taken the time to gather some firewood, so a fire was well underway when Burnie, Flava Flav, and I arrived. However, I was on a quest of my own- a quest to Eat! I had packed in a very large zucchini squash which was left as “trail magic” at one of the roads I crossed today. The menu was Basmati rice and tomato sauce with freshly dried Basil flakes over julienne zucchini wrapped in a squared whole wheat flat bread wrap! Sound delicious?! It was!! Just ask Flava Flav who added some parmesan cheese to hers! Yummmm! Filling, too! Dinner made me sleepy. It is a great spot for a shelter- there is a large river-like creek one hundred yards in front of the shelter. I can hear the whitewater flowing. I did 13.5 miles today.
This day was uncharacteristically a hard day for me to hike. I woke up to an overcast morning, which made it difficult to even move out of my sleeping bag. So I didn’t move-instead I read my book and ate breakfast! While I was lying there, the others in the shelter moved about as usual, carefully packing up and preparing to hike. I watched in slight amusement for some reason. Perhaps I was humored at my own “I’m not in a hurry to hike anywhere!!” attitude. I don’t know. It was 8:30am when the last person left me at the shelter. By 10:00am, I was on the trail myself, but moving slowly. After trudging 3 miles, I came to a little rock pond and decided it might be nice to take a swim. Here, I met Hardee and Funky B, who were “Long Trail” section hikers. When they left I jumped in. This was more of a business swim than a pleasure swim! I needed to wash off and be a little more fragrant! I accomplished this quickly and returned to shore. By now it was nearing noon and I had completed a big whoppin’ 3 miles! I got moving again under an overcast, grim sky. I’m not too sure why, but weather like this does not motivate me to hike. The trail was awesome, however! I discovered White Rocks Cliff and the rock sculptures that hikers have erected over the years. Basically, people gather stones and build unique looking structures using the stones and other resources the forest provides. It is a sight to see! Literally, there are hundreds of sculptures. Hardee, Funky B, and I took pictures in wonderment! I moved on then to Greenwall Shelter which was 1 mile past the sculptures and had lunch there. It consisted of mung bean sprouts, hummus and left-over zucchini. It was good but made me sleepy. So I rolled out the old sleeping pad and managed to squeeze 2 hour nap into my busy day of hiking! Also, I finished a book I was reading while I was floundering in my laziness! When I woke up, the weather remained dreary, but at least I was well-rested to walked the next 5.1 miles to Minerva Hinchey Shelter. Bear Mountain was my only big obstacle; it was a nice, gradual climb, except for a few steep but short rock stair climbs. I was at the shelter in no time. I didn’t fix dinner tonight- I wasn’t too hungry- so I just snacked on my trail mix. I’m here with Hardee, Funky B, and a SOBO and listening to them play a backpacker guitar; it’s nice to hear music for a change. Bugs are out tonight in moderate force. I have a feeling I’ll have to deal with them most of the night. I received some great “trail magic” from Hardee today- Yerba Mate, tea tree oil toothpicks and an orange! The tea tree oil toothpicks are awesome to chew on while I’m hiking. They’re my new thing! 13.2 miles is the grand total for the day!
I was right!! I had to deal with the bugs most of the night. I’m learning to cope, however. I slept in my rain pants with the side zippers opened some, my new, thin, nylon jacket with hood, and to complete my “armor” I had my sleeping bag liner covering me! I was slightly on the warm side but it was better than donating blood all night and waking up one big, red, itchy bite!! On a good note, this morning was a bit brighter than yesterday. I am still taking it slow though. There is no need to rush into Killington, Vermont –that would be 37 miles in 1 ½ days. I would have had to be at the post office there by noon today in order to pick up my food drop box. No way! It’s just a good reason to slow down the pace for 2-3 days – at least that’s the way I see it. From the shelter, it was an easy walk – a small “up” then a “down” to VT103. One half mile to the left on VT103 was the “Whistle Stop” café where I ate lunch and for desert, a huge strawberry shortcake! I know I shouldn’t have had it but I read about it in one of the shelter registers and it was on my mind from then on!! It was terribly unhealthy, but it sure hit the spot! Lunch was long and relaxed. I was ready to lay some miles. I met Hardee and Funky B at the Clarenden Shelter, one mile north of VT103. I rested and drank water while Hardee cooked lunch. We chatted, said our goodbyes, (it may be the last I see of them), and off I went. I crossed a stream and came upon sodas, compliments of some Vermont trail angels. I quickly slugged down a root beer, wrote a “thank you” in the notebook provided, and pushed on north. At 3870 feet, Killington Mountain was a big climb and I knew it would be intense. It turned out to be a rather moderate ascent. I think I worked my eyes out more than my body! The forest was just so dark green, musky, and covered in fallen auburn-colored needles. It was awesome! Now, I’m at Cooper Lodge- a 13.9 mile day- it rains on the tin roof!! There are 2 SOBOs, Tangent and Aussie Brian, one section hiker and three sort of anti-social girls from Canada. (Or…maybe I’m the one not being sociable?) Oh, well, it’s time for bed anyway. I have a 10—something—mile day tomorrow to “The Inn at the Long Trail,” where I will lay-over for the night. Monday I will take the shuttle into Killington for my box. Momma Dawg says there’s surprises!! Owww!! Also- get this!! 494.2 miles remain! I have less than 500 hundred miles to walk! Tsk, Tsk. Isn’t that wild?!! What’s more, I heard someone recently say “80% of the trail is completed but only 50% of the work is done.” Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine are rumored to be the toughest states. So far, Vermont has been great. I am up high enough for there not to be many bugs tonight! But it seems we have 2 snorers in the house! It’s a good thing I have ear plugs! GOODNIGHT!
I tossed and turned all night. It seems I have sprung a leak in my inflatable sleeping pad. Good thing there are outfitters in the next town, Killington/Rutland. It rained most of last night; temperature was in the low sixties. I was up early. I just couldn’t tolerate the pain in my hip from the laying on poor padding and the wood shelter floor. Three others in the shelter are already packed and within minutes of leaving. “Come on people, its not even 8 a.m. and you’re making me feel lazy!” I received trail magic this morning from the three Canadian girls who I mentioned were a little “anti-social” last night in my journal (I really think they were just being polite and respectful since I was writing in my journal when they arrived late last night). For breakfast, they gave to me orange juice, fruit, and 7 Grain bread with a special peanut butter made with molasses. It was delicious and quite unexpected, as most trail magic is! We got to know one another better as we traded questions. During our mutual inquiries, I learned my morning Cooper Lodge trail angels were all sisters from Montreal, Quebec just out for the weekend here in Vermont, USA. We had a great conversation about my trail experiences as well. Together we climbed the .2 miles to the summit of Mt. Killington (approx. 4000’), the second tallest peak in Vermont. It was a brief yet very steep grade to the top; it was like relentlessly climbing to the nose bleed section of a large football stadium—step after step after step after step…“where’s the summit? I know its here somewhere!” The clouds remained low from last night’s rain, so our view was limited to 20 or 30 feet as we ascended. As I was climbing the rock steps blindly into the misty fog, all I could think was of a song: “…and he’s climbing the stairway to heaven.” It was mystical. The summit was typical—large rocks covered with scattered patches of soil and vegetation. It afforded a wonderful view of passing clouds and fog with an occasional break to barely make out the land below. We snapped a few pictures and climbed back down to the A.T. and began our hike for the day. It was easy trail, mostly downhill. I talked with the girls as long as I could before my pace caused them to fade away in the background. I waited for them at the base of the mountain, where we hitched two miles to “The Inn at The Long Trail”. Across the street from the Inn was where they had parked their car. They gave me a ride to Rutland to an outfitter and dropped me off. However, before they departed for home, they surprised me once again with their benevolence and presented a small bag of food as a “goodbye and good luck” gift! We exchanged pleasantries and I waved them farewell. I was sad to see them go. From the outfitter, I found a ride back to the Inn and checked in for the night. Back Draft and Dig Dug zeroed at the Inn waiting for Back Draft’s father to arrive from Dallas. Also, I bumped into two new/old friends, Hearty and Funky B. We all lounged the evening away around the Inn. Hearty, Funky B and I ended up sharing a room for the night. It is hot inside our room—no air conditioning in the building—only a small oscillating fan and an open window. But, the beds are comfortable, which beats sleeping on a deflated sleeping pad. Tomorrow, a BIG zero!
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