|
What a beautiful day to hike 16.2 miles. I am slowing the pace some due to my next resupply scheduled for Vernon, New Jersey. If I continued at my current pace I would get into Vernon on Saturday, which means I would have to zero on Sunday to be able to pick up my package at the post office on Monday. Well, Officially I am out of Pennsylvania (Did I mention that?!). I really like New Jersey so far. The walking is flat except for the occasional bumps; rocks are thinning out, and vegetation is changing to more swamps. “Bogs” have been placed over them to cross them. Also, a few glacial ponds are scattered near the trail and are very beautiful. It makes it hard to walk when every 6 feet there is a perfect-looking blueberry bush just begging for it’s fruit to be picked and enjoyed. And I want to, too! So I stop and pick handfuls!! They are delicious! I passed a few (2) deer in the early evening, which is my favorite time to hike. The animals come out to feed and the forest is so amazing this time of day. I wish I could describe it! Also, I saw my first New Jersey bear!! It happened upon me when I was setting up camp for the night. I just looked up and there it was about 60 yards in front of me in an open area under a grouping of hemlock trees. Micro-seconds later he spotted me watching him and ran away. It was cool! The experience also creeped me out. New Jersey has a healthy bear population – 1 for every square mile—and here I was camping alone with no way to hang my food. A bear could have easily stolen my food without me hanging it, but I figured if it happened, then I would just have to go into the next nearest town and resupply. I wasn’t actually planning on seeing a bear before I went to sleep, but because I did, I decided I would make a small fire to dissuade any more bears on the prowl. It worked and I slept well…..until about 4:30am. For some reason, I woke up. Over my left shoulder I heard something. I looked up and over in that direction, still half asleep, and saw the outline of something small! I couldn’t make it out right away, but I became fully alert when I saw the figure moving about! I quickly reached for my light, fearing it was the end! I clicked the light to “on” and saw a porcupine right next to me! Now I was still frightened but not to the point of death! When I turned on the light, the porcupine merely looked up at me, turned away, and began to slowly climb a tree that was 8-10 feet away. He didn’t bother any of my gear, so it was just a scare and a cool story. Happy Trails!
When I got up this morning, that porcupine still remained in the tree so I snapped a few pictures to verify my tale! Wow! Today was a wildlife walk more than it was a hike! First, leaving the camp this morning about 8:30am, I saw a doe with her fawn, then shortly I saw 2 more doe. Four wild turkeys crossed the trail, then I saw a momma bear and her three cubs!! I didn’t take pictures of the deer --no big shot there to speak of- the turkeys were too quick and the bears I had to chase down to get any pictures. And I did, too!! Though I didn’t get any of “momma” , I did get the cubs in a tree they had climbed! It was thrilling to see so much wild-life today. Oh! And I can’t forget my porcupine from this morning! My early start was good, it seems. Overall, it was a 17.4 mile day. I stopped at Sunrise Mountain (1312.8 miles) for a “pack- off and boot-off ” break. There was a pavilion there with great views and a nice, cool, constant breeze. I was reading when a local couple, Kate and Jeff, befriended me. They had many curious questions, as did I about them. We hung out there and watched the sun set. They invited me back to their home for dinner; I accepted, as long as I could get back on the trail that same night. They promised. It was a great time!! I met the family and they let me have total use of their kitchen and any and all food! I made a nice salad from cabbage, onions, mushrooms, and more. They were amazed at my resourcefulness and how good it tasted (Kate does not like veggies very much). Jeff dropped me back off at the trail around midnight. Normally there is “no camping” at the pavilion and my original plan was to hike 3.4 miles (about 1 ½ hour) to the next shelter, but it was much later that I thought it would be when I arrived back at the pavilion. I just decided to sleep there. Especially thinking about the lack a bear bag rope (I had sent it home awhile back to lighten my pack which was why I had planned to stay at the shelter in the first place). It turned out to be a great decision; I slept awesome!! The wind was constant all night, so I never got hot or was awoken by biting insects. The sunrise was blocked by overcast. Thanks! Kate and Jeff!!
I broke camp late! I was just sleeping too good to leave! When I got to the first shelter and saw it’s condition, I was so very glad I just stayed at the pavilion (no trouble from Locals or Rangers, by the way). I met Trail Angels Desperado and Beefstick at the Mashipacong Shelter. They were resupplying Trail Magic in the park’s bear boxes. (These are metal boxes used to keep bears out of hiker’s food). They are constantly putting treats in the boxes like cookies, powdered drink mixes, candy, toilet paper, first aid supplies, water,--there is no water source at this shelter-- and more.) They are awesome, good-hearted guys! Desperado even gave tips on where to shop along our hike- all the way to Maine. Thanks, guys! I filled up on “The best water in Jersey” according to Desperado, loaded up on some sweets, and hit the trail again but this time I was traveling with Dig Dug. We walked together for the remainder of the day till we reached the Secret Shelter (1328.7 miles). The Secret Shelter is not an official A.T. C. shelter, so SHHHH!!!! It is a private farm where the proprietor has built small bunk houses with running water and electricity. It has to be one of the most peaceful places I have experienced so far! The property was gorgeous!! It even has donkeys. I first realized there were donkeys was when I heard this “HeeHawing!”—It was so loud and erratic, my first thought was they were being attacked by a coyote or something. Turns out, no. They “scream” frequently. Dig Dug found out they don’t like people after he approached them and they started “HeeHawing!” again. He just laughed and walked away. I took pictures of the full moon and clouds. We didn’t have rain today even thought it was partly cloudy, but it might rain tonight. It was a muddy, swampy trail on the hike today.
The rain did come last night although it had stopped by the time we got up. I was up at 5:30am- I just couldn’t sleep. I was hot and sweating most of the night; I opened the windows and biting flies came—it was not a win-win situation, so I just got up. The sun was up, too but it was overcast and humid. I sat on the porch, so peaceful for an hour, just listening and watching the clouds roll by. It was serene. I realize that the journey I love and dreamed about for so long is slowly ending. And it really only feels like it has just begun. So I just sat and consumed in the beauty. Dig Dug woke about 7:30am; we took our time leaving since it was only a 13.6 mile day to Vernon, New Jersey, our next town Resupply. It was a humid, humid, humid hot day! Did I mention it was humid?!! We were soaked in sweat just minutes after hiking the trail. Most of the clouds were giving way to afternoon sun, adding to the tough hiking conditions; but thankfully, it was a nice, moderate hike into town. The trail passed through the Walkill National Wildlife Reserve, which was stunning scenery. We walked over boardwalks and “bogs.” Some of the “bogs” were eroded and worn- they need to be replaced. Sometimes I’d step on the end of a bog and it would teeter to the water under it, getting my boots wet. Unfortunately, you can’t tell which bog boards are going to teeter. Once on the other side of the bog, it would teeter back into the water on the other end, again wetting my boots! It was fun and challenging! From Heaven Hill Farm, we got a ride into town (2.4 miles) from a nice family who were on vacation. We stayed at St. Thomas Episcopal Church Hostel; a $5.00 donation and one chore required. I straightened the kitchen. We showered and slept. Tomorrow is maildrop and resupply!
I tried to leave Vernon today….well, technically I did, but not the way I had intended. I had two more errands to run – the P.O. and the supermarket, to re-supply journal paper – and then I was going to hike. However, Trail Angel Desperado came by the hostel in Vernon and offered a ride. Of course, I accepted! It was getting late (3pm) and I needed to get out of town if I was going to put any decent miles in, but somehow I got distracted and before I knew it, I was riding along with Desperado helping him do trail magic!! He has been working the New Jersey section for over 30 years and is a favorite angel among thru-hikers. His magic is beyond any normal everyday magic. Desperado does so much to help thru-hikers including, but not limited to, shuttles, water caches, food caches, advice, friendship and more. He sort of kidnapped me into coming along for the ride. I will admit it was fun! We met Sven, Sardine, Backdraft, Dig Dug, Two Ton Mantis, Crazy Legs and Tall Tales somewhere near Peters Mountain.
We were at an ice cream stand 3/10 miles off the trail on Hwy 17A. We talked for a good hour there while having shakes and ice cream. Desperado took Dig Dug, Backdraft and I to a Chinese all-you-can-eat buffet which was really good! We all left stuffed. Desperado dropped us off back at Hwy 17A. We hiked in the dark for 2 miles to the shelter. So, I have had a yellow blaze experience. I’m not too sure what to think. It feels weird to have skipped a short section. It was a good day nonetheless. We camped out at Wildcat Shelter (1359.6mi). There was no rain today. I was in bed by 11pm. I need to hike 20 miles tomorrow. The talk is that it’s a “tough section” but I will reserve judgment until I see for myself. For now – bedtime!
I was the last to leave the shelter this morning. I couldn’t resist feeding a dehydrated pear to a cute chipmunk which was playing in front of the shelter. It was a hot, humid day to hike. Personally, I enjoy this type of weather conditions, but many hikers complain about it. There were a lot of rocks today as well as many ups and downs (each one 1000 feet or so); we call them “bumps.” In some areas I would have to use my hands to grab rocks, roots, or trees to hoist myself up the trail. In one such section, dubbed “the Lemon Squeeze,” it was even necessary to remove my pack in order to shimmy my body through the crevice. As I was taking pictures of “the Squeeze,” old friends happened to show up. If those of you at home have not noticed, thru-hikers flip-flop each other frequently due to everyone’s varied hiking paces and different zero days. What a group!! Rainbow, Mrs. Gorp, Katie(too many trail names), Pokey, Gabby Art – all present and well! It was good to see them still truckin’ on strong. Unfortunately, I had planned to go 4 more miles to William Brien Memorial Shelter (1379.2 miles) and they didn’t, so now they are behind me. I ate dinner alone in a golden-green and open, rocky ridge field. It was peaceful to eat with the light breeze and gorgeous scenery made even more beautiful with the sunset. Moreover, I had front row tickets to endless melodies of insects. My simple meal of rice, tortillas, and sprouts made it feel like a 5-star dinner and a show! I sat and thought about my day- In the heat of the late afternoon, I had a wonderfully refreshing swim in “Island Pond” with Backdraft, Dig Dug, Two Ton Mantis, Sven, and Sardine. I also saw a garter snake and 3 deer on the trail. After eating, I pushed on to the shelter. Upon arriving, there were 12 hikers at the shelter, including Pacemaker and Nightrider. I haven’t seen these guys in over a month! I only am seeing them now because they zero’ed for a few days. Good times and good friends are always when you least expect it and I was truly surprised to see them!! 20.3 miles were covered today. It has been a great day over “easy” terrain-- meaning I thought it was a good, physically-challenging day. And do you know what feels good after a good, physically-challenging day? SLEEP! Tomorrow I can look forward to a mail drop in Bear Mountain, New York!
Last night after finishing my journal entry, it occurred to me to check the hours of operation of the Bear Mountain post office. (Some of the post offices in the smaller towns on or near the A.T. will sometimes have limited hours of operation.) And wouldn’t you know!- The Bear Mountain post office is only open from 8:00-10:00 am! It meant I had to hike 8.1 miles before 10:00am! So, I woke up at 5:30am and hit the trail at 6:15 along with Pacemaker, Nightrider, and Ode’ the Fearless. The morning was stale and cloudy. Soon the sun came up and burned off the low clouds. Now we had sunshine, high, cotton-ball clouds, and plenty of gusting winds—It’s like turning on the “air conditioning”—It feels so reviving to us hikers! We live for those moments and enjoy them to the fullest. Coming into Bear Mountain was mildly difficult, but because I was with old friends and we had much catching up to do, the time went by quickly. Bear Mountain post office was difficult to locate! Nightrider and I began walking down the road we thought it was on, but we were wrong. Realizing this was not the correct road, we immediately began to thumb for a ride. We only had 10 minutes before the post office closed!! Finally, after several misses a short bus picked us up. Cool!!- a short bus hitch!! Anyway, the driver, a 20 year old local, swore Bear Mountain did NOT have a post office!! But I knew it was there somewhere; we just couldn’t find it! Eventually, however, we did manage to locate it. Thankfully, when we got there at 10:10am, it was STILL open!! And I was able to get my boxes. In fact, it was open till 2:00pm. Oh, well, no big deal! I opened by box by the lake and enjoyed Momma Dawg’s cookies with Nightrider, Pacemaker, and Ode’. We “yogied” sodas from nearby New York picnikers then made phone calls from the Bear Mountain Wildlife Center. The Center is free to thru-hikers and has a variety of local animals- a birdhouse, an amphibian/reptile house, bears, otters, cats, coyote, and more. Most of the animals were brought to the center to be saved from illness or injury. We met Impulse meandering around inside, too! After we left the Wildlife Center, we walked over the Hudson River via the Bear Mountain Bridge. Crossing bridges is always fun. The climb out of Bear Mountain was steep. With a full 40 pound pack ( food resupply from my box), it was slow- going up and over the rocky hills. None the less, with a few breaks, we still made it 7 more miles by 4:00pm. and reached the Graymoor Friary. (We had not left town till 1:00-pm) The pavilion there is used by hikers as a shelter. They have running water, a sink, and a COLD shower stall. The Friary is a “must stop” because they have been feeding hikers since the late 70’s. During peak season, there can be as many as 14-16 hikers eating dinner (at no cost to us hikers). Tonight we ate spaghetti, salad and bread with 12 of us there for dinner! Our server, Micheal, was very good to us and brought more salad mix which they normally don’t do! He was cool! So the plans I had to stop into New York City were abandoned because I had no place to stay and the train only picks up at the A.T. station on Saturdays at 2:30pm. and Sundays at 3:00pm. No other times are offered. I was bummed out. I was looking forward to seeing Central Park, Ground Zero, and Lady Liberty. However, the “new” plan is to go to West Hartford, Connecticut, to visit Doc and his family. Doc was just recently accepted to Yale Medical School. He began hiking this summer from Springer Mountain, Ga. and hiked 1300 miles. Doc drove an hour and a half to pick up Nightrider, Pacemaker, and myself. So, tomorrow will be a zero day. Puck Fin, 9 Monkeys, Cowgirl, and Pippin are also going to be there. It will be a reunion for me- most of these people are ahead of me on the trail by a few days. Oh! And today marks my 4 MONTH ANNIVERSARY!!! on the trail. It’s a great feeling!! 779.7 more miles to go!!
Big Zero today with not much accomplished. I slept in late because we didn’t get to Doc’s house until almost 1:00am. Before getting here, we had to stop in the next town to pick up Pippin and Cowgirl. They had no idea we were coming for them. We woke them up and scared them pretty bad doing it!! In a few minutes, they were packed, and we all squeezed into the car – 4 in the back seat, a front passenger, driver, and 5 packs mashed into a Volvo!! What a ride!! My butt was numb after the hour-plus ride! Anyway, this morning breakfast was good and we all laid around afterwards watching a movie and catching up on the trail news. Later, we went to “Outfitter EMS”, a buffet, and Blockbuster for more movies. Ya’ll will notice that hikers like movies on their days off since it requires no moving or mental effort of any kind! Doc has a good family and they treated us very nicely. Oh! Doc is famous!! Check out www.twotacos.com Look at the list of current projects under “Chris Winterbottom man thong page.” It seems like he was a crazy man during a major league baseball game. Check out the site- it’s wild! He even showed us videos and newspaper articles. What a riot! Good times! And you Doc, will be missed by many on the trail!
There is not too much exciting to say today. We all lounged around Doc’s most of the morning until we were motivated enough to get packed and on the road. It was tricky fitting 8 people into a Volvo, especially with our packs but we managed it somehow. Doc dropped us off at each of our respective trailheads; we all said our goodbyes and said we’d see each other soon. Pacemaker, Nightrider, and I were the furthest south of the hikers but we promised we’d catch up. It was hard leaving. We were the last to get dropped off. Since we had left for Connecticut from Graymoor Friary, that is where Doc dropped us off. We made it just in time for dinner!! Now this second night’s dinner was much better than the first. The menu was better- we had asparagus, salad, pizza, veggies, and more. It was definitely worth staying for dinner instead of hiking out. So today was another Zero day. We are sleeping on the picnic tables and plan on waking up early for the “big” miles to try to catch up to “the group” we left in Kent, Connecticut. I hope it works out...
Dang, I’m beat! Long miles today- 27.9 miles. We’re trying to catch up to 9 Monkeys, Puck Fin, Rally, and the gang. We’re going for another long day tomorrow. I’m feeling mentally good; my feet are tender, but I think they have a few more miles left in ‘em. It’s a cool night to tarp – about 55 degrees – It’s unusual to have such low temps this time of year. It sure does make for good sleeping though! We are staying the night at Morgan Stewart Shelter (1422.3miles). Goodnight!
We had a major event today: Hanging out at the Appalachian Trail Railroad Station (1432.9 miles) with Pacemaker and Nightrider for two hours trying to decide whether we wanted to go into New York City – the train picked up at 4:40pm. and dropped off at the Grand Central Station. We were back and forth; on then off; yes, we were going, no, we weren’t. It was such a tough decision. Finally, after much debating and thinking through the pro’s and con’s, we made a final decision to go to the City! It was only within a few minutes of making our city-bound choice that the train pulled up into the station. We grabbed our packs, waited for the others to board the train, and then…. At the last minute, Pacemaker backed out of going. We all looked at each other- stunned- as the doors to the train closed and it pulled out of the station. “Well, I guess we’re not going to New York City” I said. I was so disappointed!! I have never been to the City and I had wanted to go so badly. Something about taking that train straight from the trail to the City captured my adventurous spirit. I just left, then; heading north by myself while Pacemaker and Nightrider stayed and made dinner. After such and big build-up and then the let- down of not going, I just wanted to be alone. I hiked 20.6 miles to the Ten Mile River Lean-to (1442.9 miles) Officially, I am now in Connecticut. Tomorrow, I’ll go into Kent, Connecticut (1451.6 miles) for a small resupply. There is still no sign of Pacemaker or Nightrider, who said they would meet me here. I guess they are night hiking.
Continue with journal
|
