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It was a long night for me. The dinner last night did not set well, so I had gas all night. In order to combat my cramps, I drank a lot of water which caused me to make frequent “potty” trips. Even though we were sleeping in bunks, I didn’t sleep well. I woke up this morning to some disgruntled hiker friends. It seems my “gas fragrance” not only kept me up but kept them up, too!!! OOPs! Sorry ‘bout that, guys! I managed to get an 8:15am start. It wads a nice, gradual downhill hike to the road where we hitched a ride to North Woodstock. Corey, the guy who gave us our ride, happened to work as manager of “LaHouts Outdoor.” He took us right to the store: it was sweet! I was able to get the straps on my pack replaced free- the pack is still under warranty. I have replaced my boots with lighter, not-so-rigid Lowa’s; I also picked up a goose down vest for an additional winter layer. It has already come in useful tonight. While I was at the post office sending home my old boots, a 2004 thru-hiker named Switchback introduced himself to me and offered help in any way he could. I said a ride back to the trail head would be great. He even let me use his cell phone to call mom so she wouldn’t wonder why my hiking boots showed up on her doorstep! So at 2:00pm I finally got back on the trail! Supposedly, the ascent to Mt. Lafayette was to be grueling but I loved it! The new boots felt awesome on my feet; I had no problems! The climb up to the ridge was not that difficult and was the usual scenery. Once I reached the ridge though, and was above the tree-line, it was unlike any sight I’d seen before! I was above tree-line on a significant mountain of size! I had to climb Little Haystack, then Mt. Lincoln, and finally, to end the day, Mt. Lafayette. Oh, these series of three mountains above tree-line afforded absolutely stunning and breath-taking views. There is no way a camera or words can capture the human experience of truly being there. Just my presence on that mountain made me feel small, yet so important. It was incredible! I wish I could articulate into words the feelings it gave me. To top it off was the terrific weather- a cool 70, no clouds (barely), sun, wind- AWESOME!! Oh! If you could only be present with me. I debated on whether to stay for the sunset, but it was VERY chilly on the summit of Lafayette, so I pushed another 1.1 mile straight down the mountain! (this one did not count as part of the Appalachian Trail) to Greenleaf Hut. Upon my arrival, I was put to work (this is a work-for-stay hut) scrubbing bunks to help begin the “closing for winter” preparations. Backdraft and Dig Dug also helped. Dinner was served promptly at 7:00pm (after the guests of the hut eat). We had fresh baked bread, broccoli and black bean soup with noodles. It was yummy! The stars are out since the clouds are not! Dig Dug and I spotted 3—YES---3---shooting stars. This trail never ceases to amaze me. What a great day! And more of the Great Whites tomorrow! I covered 9.3 miles today!
I had to hike the 1.1 mile back to the Appalachian Trail this morning; it was an uphill climb to Mt. Lafayette’s summit. Someone told me that the White Mountains only have 50 days a year with weather as good as today’s. How did I get so lucky? Once we hit the summit, we had a ridge-walk above treeline over North Lafayette Mountain and back down below the treeline to the base of Mt. Garfield. Mt. Garfiled was a climb, but once at the top we had beautiful views. We could see the Galehead Hut and South Twin Mountain. “Would you look at that trail on South Twin! It goes straight up!!—no switch-backs!!” After seeing that, we knew it was going to be a butt-busting climb (steep!) While I was packing up my belongings from the break I’d taken, who walks up on me?? ATLAS!! We started the same day-April 4th- together but he had vanished off the trail after the second day! If you will remember, he is the one who got the very bad sore throat and ended up having to get off the trail and have a tonsillectomy! I had known he was on the trail again and walking north from word- of- mouth. Atlas had been “missing in action” for 5 months and he had finally caught up with me!! It was great to see him. We talked and walked together until Galehead Hut where we ate lunch. We pushed on up South Twin Mountain, a HARD steep climb! As I’ve said though, I love the climbs! A half hour later, I was at the top. I had 360 degree views. It was AWESOME! I finally made it to Zealand Falls Hut (1821.4 miles) by 6:00pm. It was a full hut!! –There were 13 guests and 5 hikers but the hut was still not filled to capacity. I washed up in the falls, which was really, really cold. Tonight Atlas, Dig Dug, Backdraft, Hiking Bear, and I did our work- for-stay. I had to scrub the outside of four bins that are used for storing sugar, flour, etc. It wasn’t difficult and consumed about 30 minutes of my evening. Dinner was ham. Yes, ham- and cous cous. It was just okay; I hope the small amount of meat doesn’t upset my stomach since it has been so long since I have eaten any. Well, it was a great 13.6 miles (plus that 1.1 mile from Greenleaf Hut to the Appalachian Trail!) And on that note, it’s time for ZZZZZ’s! Goodnight to all!!
What a long day! I am currently at the Lake of the Clouds Hut tonight. It is 19+ miles from Zealand Falls Hut. I didn’t sleep well at Zealand Falls last night; I’m not sure why- I was tired. The sunrise woke me at 5:30am. I was sleeping on the hut’s porch and was in and out of consciousness until 6:30am. The hut croo (pronounced like “crew, but for some reason they have their own spelling for it on the trail) made the “30 minute breakfast yell.” I had to sweep the dining room for my “work-for-stay.” Breakfast consisted of cream of wheat and fresh home-made donuts—Yummy! Leaving Zealand Hut, the trail was a nice, gentle grade, hiking over an old railroad bed, to Crawford Notch; also, it was mostly downhill. At the Notch, Gabby Art’s wife was waiting with apple cider. Gabby, Pokey, Dig Dug, Backdraft, Hiking Bear, Atlas and I ate snacks under the shade while enjoying our apple cider “trail magic!” I hung out there for a half hour or so then made the push to Webster Cliffs and Webster Mountain. I’m not sure what was going on with me, but I felt like puking my guts. I don’t think I was pushing the climb too hard, but something made me feel sick. Perhaps it was the large quantities of apple cider I had just consumed, or perhaps it was because of the lunch I had skipped. (I opted for a snack instead.) I’m not sure, but whatever it was passed after I guzzled down a liter of water from a spring that I had saw on the climb up. I took it slow from there until the feeling passed. I’ve heard of hikers “spewing” from too much exertion on too full of a stomach, but this was a first for me, if I recall correctly. I slowly crept to Webster Cliffs (3330 feet) for a great view of Crawford Notch. Atlas, Backdraft, Dig Dug, and I played a game from the cliffs: who could throw a rock the farthest past the cliff. I don’t think we played to “declare a winner,” but I was the first to clear the cliff. Eventually, we all did. It was another 600 foot climb to Webster Mountain. We crossed paths with a SOBO named “Mystery.” After speaking with her, we made a 2 mile dash to Mizpah Spring Hut (2635 feet). I was exhausted by the time I arrived. I drank some water and ate dried papaya to refuel. The hut master, Bethany, had a bad splinter in her finger which I helped remove. As a token of thanks for my assistance, she gave me a bowl of soup for free! It was veggie soup with potatoes and was very good! Atlas and I pushed on north another 5.5 miles to Lakes of the Clouds Hut in hopes of watching the sunset above treeline on the ridge. I was tired but managed to muster enough steam to make it to the hut by 7:00pm. The last 5.5 miles weren’t too difficult- but after already hiking 14 miles, they proved to be a challenge. 19+ miles in the White Mountains is a big, big day!! The trail climbs 1500 to 2000 feet then descends 1500 to 2000 feet—all this over just 1 or 2 miles. It is tough hiking. I was, however, rewarded with an A++ sunset. Atlas and I only passed 2 hikers from 4:30pm to 7:00pm, which was really nice. It was as if we were the only 2 people on the planet. At the hut, lasagna was served with salad, and broccoli with gingerbread for desert. The hut systems are nice but I’m not eating ANY of the food that I’m carrying. That’s bad!! My pack weight is not going down except for a few snacks per day! The hut meals are much tastier though. We are sleeping inside on tables tonight. I’m hoping for better sleep since the past 2 night’s rest has been “so-so.” Tomorrow’s hike –over Mt. Washington, the tallest peak in New England, then 5.5 miles of the Presidential Range to Madison Hut (the Presidential Range is 25 miles long, mostly above treeline, about 4,440 feet, and is ridge-walking) – is said to be one of the 10 best hikes in the world!! I’m thinking of swimming in the morning in the lakes. Twenty-two years ago when I visited here with my folks, this lake was the first lake I ever swam in. Even at the brave age of 4, I was an adventure-seeking soul! Ain’t it cool?! Yeah! The water will be cool! It’s fed by mountain streams!!
A short but long day!! It was necessary for us to rise early this morning since we were sleeping on the tables where the guests eat!! Breakfast is served at 7:00am sharp so the croo made us get up at 6:30am. Atlas and I had to sweep the dining room and bunk room for our “work-for-stay.” It only took us about 30 minutes. We took our time leaving the hut since it was going to be a short day- only 7 miles. I swam in the lake as planned and it was SUPER cold, much colder than I remember it! HA! One of the hut croo even let me use a blow-up raft to float on then decided to join us. Or course, the water was so cold; I only floated for a few minutes. In just those few minutes, my entire body was totally numb!! It was good fun! We left for Mt. Washington at 10:00am. A 1 ½ mile climb and a gain of 1300 feet took us 45 minutes. The weather was fine. It could have been better, yes, but I was just happy to have partly sunny/ partly cloudy skies, a slight breeze and no rain. This is all I wanted. I could have cared less about seeing the views- I have been blessed with many views the last couple of days. Can’t have everything, right?!! The summit was crowded with people. The Cog Railway transports people to the top from the base of the mountain. Typically it is about a 1 ½ hour ride and $85.00 round trip. I think each car holds about 45 people. There is a museum and snack bar for people to spend money. I made a phone call home, wrote some post cards, and wrote in my journal while I was there. It was only another 5.5 miles to Madison Springs Hut over the Presidential Range. I waited until 6:00pm to leave because I wanted to walk into the sunset. Ninety percent of the Prezzies, a nickname for the Presidential Range, are above treeline. It was a technical, rock-hopping walk to the hut. I saw the sunset like I wanted but didn’t take the best of pictures because the camera just couldn’t capture the subtle light through the haze. It was a nice sunset, none-the-less. I was able to see until 8:00pm then I had to use my headlamp. The light lingers much more up high in the mountains, so even though the sun was down I could still see my way fairly well. The last 2 miles were tricky, though. The trail is not well marked with blazes. Instead they use cairns which are rock piles used to mark the route of the trail. It was dark so the cairns were very difficult to locate. I made it here safely, thankfully. I walked in about 8:45pm to a thru-hiker game of euchre. At the shelter tonight are Backdraft, Atlas, Hiking bear, A-Dog, Riles, Dig Dug, Acorn, and me. I am not sure what my “work-for-stay” chore will be. I missed dinner at the hut, but I am not too upset about it. The hut meals are “backing up my plumbing.” I will be glad to get back to a normal “hiker diet” once out of the Whites. I’m looking to do about 14 miles tomorrow. There is a 30% chance of rain due to the hurricane (I’m not sure of the name!) We’ll see. It’s 11:51pm and I’m just now turning in for the night.
I started the day off in a bad mood due to the poor organization of the Madison Springs Hut croo. It began at 5:30am when those of us who were sleeping in the main dining area were woken and told to go to the bunks to continue sleeping. I didn’t sleep well thereafter. I wish they would have told me that they were going to ask us to move in the first place and I would have just slept in a bunk. The “work-for-stay” also frustrated me. The croo had us scrub the walls of the dining room with soap and water, then go back over it all with Clorox. I thought that was a little much, especially since the croo was goofing off while we, who needed to hike, worked for over an hour scrubbing walls. The hut is closed down each winter, so that’s why we were doing this type of work. I didn’t leave the hut until 10:00am or so, and only then because I told them I was done! I just left without saying anything more. I was bitter. The hike over Madison was not hard, but with the late start and my poor attitude/ I just didn’t want to hike. When I reached Pinkham Notch, I was done. Atlas and I got a ride from a section hiker, Acorn to Gorham, New Hampshire. He gave us a ride to the post office then to a hostel called “The Barn.” Tomorrow we will slack the 21 miles we missed or take a zero day depending on the weather. It is predicted to rain in the morning then to clear up. Sunday it is supposed to be nice. Either way, we are going to “zero” and it doesn’t matter to us which day it turns out to be. The “Garland 5” is back on the trail. Clothesline, the mother, got encephalitis and had to get off the trail. I ran up on them today shortly before reaching Pinkham Notch. Acorn’s section hike is completed. I’m glad to be at here at the hostel. I’m warm, clean, laundry is complete and I’m resupplied. Earlier this evening we watched the Gorham High School Homecoming Parade go by. It is raining now which means we will most likely zero tomorrow, slack on Sunday and stealth camp in town somewhere, then walk out Monday. We are still on schedule to summit October 10th. We are almost out of New Hampshire! YEAH! Life is good! Oh! And I am in a better mood now!!!
We zeroed today. I managed a good night’s sleep and slept in late. I went to the post office then met Atlas at Burger King for coffee. I also made a stop at the “Hiker Paradise Hostel” to see who was in town. The hostel owners were rude and unfriendly; I’m glad I am at the barn!! Despite the poor hospitality from the proprietors, there were many hikers there including Mr. T, Flint, London, Scorch, Chicago Rob, Gorbechov, Guy, and Rooster. Also in town I saw Swix, Momma’s Boy, Squats, Backdraft, Dig Dug, and Atlas. We watched a high school soccer game after lunch at the China Buffet. I was surprised to see Rob Bird of the “Bird Cage Hostel” in town. All of us went to his hostel to watch Tennessee (30) spank the Gators (28)—a close game! It was great to see him again. He was just passing thru town looking for hikers. Well. A good zero, overall. Tomorrow we will slack 21 miles. So I need to be up early, about 6:30am. And I’m headed to bed late—it is 12:44am. It’s going to be a long, hard hike, even without a pack.
Phew, A long slack today from Pinkham Notch. Waking up at 6:30am didn’t happen!! It was more like 7:45 or 8:00am. With my “Hiker to Pinkham Notch” sign, Atlas and I hitched a ride in no time. We were on the trail by 9:00am. It was cold and very windy. The weatherman said it would be sunny but it was not. It wasn’t raining though, so we zeroed on the right day!! People had built the climb up Wildcat Ridge so much that I was actually nervous about hiking it. Yes, it was steep and mostly rocks, however, not a super tough climb. But we were slacking up and not having the weight of our packs definitely helped minimize our exertion. Don/t get me wrong, it was tough, but not like I had heard it was going to be. Yesterday’s rain made the trail muddy and the rocks were wet and slippery. It slowed us down but not too bad. We took a 20 minute lunch at Carter Notch Hut. The weather was recorded as being 34 degrees with wind gusts of up to 35 miles per hour. On the peaks, the trees were covered in ice. As the day warmed up (not that much though!), the ice melted just enough that when the wind blew the ice would fall on us and the trail. I thought at first it was snow flurries. At this point I thought to myself, “Sunny? Yeah, right!!” It was a good thing I had packed my fleece hat, gloves, and windbreaker! – Else I would have perished on the mountain! (Joke!!!) But seriously, I would have been dangerously cold. All the views were cloudy, too. The overall route of the trail was straight up and straight down, which wrecked my knees. They are fine now but I was sure hurting earlier today. The cold didn’t help matters much. I wonder how I will fare once the weather is permanently cold. Anyway, I’m just beat. The guidebook recommends taking 3-4 days for hiking this section. It is rated very strenuous so it’s no wonder why I am beat! I arranged a “work-for-stay” with Doc at “the Barn.” We have to fix a small sign that is leaning too much. It shouldn’t take too long to fix. I sure am glad he let us stay. I didn’t want to pay for a third night and I was too exhausted to move anywhere! Originally, we had planned to walk north out of Gorham a mile and camp. It works out better that we didn’t. O.K. That’s all I have. Off to sleep. I’m always the last to get to bed!! (12:09am!)
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